General Concepts for Choosing Equipment

Factors to consider when choosing outdoor equipment include the following:

An outing in a remote locale or of a long duration may require different gear than would a short outing close to an urban environment. In the wilderness setting, the equipment one uses is not just for personal adornment or comfort—it may be a lifesaving tool (Figure 94-1, online).

FIGURE 94-1 Hiking in the Bugaboos, Canada.

Choosing Gear

When shopping for outdoor equipment, one notices a huge variety in cost, materials, and quality. Although the general rule is that the more expensive gear is of better quality, this does not mean one must always purchase “the best.” Certain sports require sport-specific gear, but many general pieces overlap and can be used for a multitude of situations. Examples include camping gear (e.g., tent, stove, and sleeping bag) needed for most overnight adventures. However, one might require a different tent when car camping with the family than if undertaking a backpacking trip to a remote location. When car camping, a large two-burner gas stove is appropriate and useful, but it would be burdensome to carry in a backpack because of weight and bulk. For a sleeping bag, even at the same temperature rating, a heavier, bulkier, and less expensive bag would be adequate for the car camper, whereas the backpacker would require a lighter, less bulky option, which would be more expensive because of materials. One should purchase gear appropriate for the level of the adventure. It may be best to carry certain items, such as stoves, in duplicate for various applications.

With the advent of new technologies, outdoor equipment has become significantly lighter and often quite expensive. An ongoing debate among outdoor enthusiasts centers on the concept of weight. There are two basic theories for selecting equipment and packing for wilderness travel. One concept is to carry as much of the best equipment as one can reasonably haul and afford. This theoretically enables one to prepare for as many outdoor conditions and mishaps as possible and allows for maximum variability and flexibility. This works well for long trips with support vehicles, boats, or porters, especially research or scientific expeditions. However, this style is not practical if terrain, weight, space, or funds limit equipment choices.

The more common concept endorsed by recreational travelers is using light, compact equipment. An alpine mountaineering style perfected by long-distance hikers has been developed around this concept. Carrying less and using lighter equipment saves energy and often leads to a safer, more enjoyable experience. It makes sense to skimp on weight when maximal performance is not necessary. For most recreational outdoor enthusiasts, maximal performance is rarely necessary. For example, instep crampons may be adequate in place of full-frame crampons for low-angle, nontechnical snowfield hiking. Even when full-frame crampons are used, they are rarely used at the limit of the integrity of the structure or the strength of the materials.

Some newer, lighter, and “high-tech” tools use cutting-edge materials. Carbon fiber, titanium, magnesium, aluminum, plastics, and other materials create strong, light equipment. If weight, durability, and maximal performance are issues, consider using tools made of these materials. If one does not need extremely lightweight equipment, then traditional materials may work just fine. For example, a standard aluminum avalanche probe is more durable and only slightly heavier than is a new carbon fiber probe. Using light gear potentially introduces some risk. The gear can be less durable, less reliable, and more expensive. A plastic avalanche shovel is not nearly as durable as is a heavier aluminum one. Multifunction gear is a great way to shed weight and space. However, performance of each function may be compromised. For example, multitool pliers do not have the strength or power of simple tongue-and-groove pliers. Also, if the tool breaks or is lost, one has lost more than just a single item. For example, most experts agree that in a rescue, an avalanche probe is superior to ski poles that convert to a probe (Figure 94-2).

FIGURE 94-2 Ski touring in British Columbia, Canada.

Practice is key to using equipment properly, especially with equipment that is highly technical, complicated, or electronic. Choose simple tools and gear, because they are often more reliable and durable. Try to get gear that is easy to adjust and repair in the field. Avoid complex gear that requires special tools for setup, repair, or maintenance. For example, choose “tool-free” crampons that adjust without a wrench or screwdriver; use a compass with an easily adjustable declination correction. Everyone does not need to carry the same gear. Members of a party should divide equipment and carry different tools to avoid unnecessary redundancy. This way, the team has a greater selection to match tasks and can split up the weight and bulk of items like stoves, tents, medical gear, and research equipment. Plan well, but learn to improvise. One should never cut corners on an emergency kit or survival gear.

Essential Emergency Equipment

When planning any sort of wilderness activity for work, research, or recreation, travelers should prepare a basic emergency kit. In 1906, a group known as The Mountaineers was organized that specialized in outdoor adventures and climbing. A series of climbing courses and collaboration ultimately produced Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills in 1960, now in its seventh revision. Through this work, a list of 10 Essentials was devised, which was the gold standard for emergency preparedness in the outdoors.

The advent of new technologies has necessitated revision of the original list; however, the fundamental concept of preparation remains unchanged.

Regardless of technology, most experts now recommend a basic list of essential equipment that may include more or less than 10 items and varies according to context. A basic emergency kit should include first-aid, survival, and repair materials. The questions to ask when determining the size and contents of an emergency kit are who, what, where, when, how far, and how long?

Navigation

There is no substitute for a map and compass. The bare minimum navigation system is a compass with declination correction and a topographic map. Global Positioning System (GPS) technology offers many admirable features; however, it depends on an energy source and electronics. If one is fully dependent on a device that fails, then disaster is imminent. Electronics are neither indestructible nor waterproof. A common failure of GPS navigation is when a sufficient number of satellites cannot be acquired in dense foliage or obstructing terrain, such as a slot canyon. In addition, batteries often do not perform adequately in temperature extremes. One should always carry a compass and appropriate map for backup.

Many techniques exist for use of map and compass. Information is available in Chapter 96. Overall, the concept of navigation is to know current location and direction of intended travel. An altimeter is useful, especially in the mountains or canyons. Wrist altimeters are either GPS based or interpreted via changes in barometric pressure. GPS devices are more accurate. A sudden change in barometric pressure can indicate an impending storm and allow persons additional time to find shelter. Many wristwatches now feature storm alarms.

GPS devices allow easy and accurate positioning via triangulation with satellites (Figure 94-3). The greatest utility of GPS is when used in concert with a topographic map and compass. GPS devices provide information such as velocity, bearing, and distance or deviation to next waypoint. They are available in handheld and wrist-top configurations. Handheld units have a larger screen but are more bulky than the wrist-top devices. Some display topographic maps, although at varying resolutions. Wrist-top GPS devices are newer technology and are more expensive. Additional features, such as heart rate monitor, serve to combine a traditional training wristwatch with a GPS device. The information is compatible with Google Earth and similar programs, so that the user may upload the information to a personal computer to track route/performance (Figure 94-3, B). Wrist-top GPS units are commonly synchronized to a computer, where preplanned checkpoints are established.

FIGURE 94-3 Garmin, a leader in GPS navigation, has many models. A, Garmin GPSMAP 60CSx. B, Garmin eTrex Legend HCx.

(From http://garmin.com.)

Sun Protection

Carry sunscreen and sun-protective eyewear, either goggles or glasses. A sun hat and sun protective clothing are also important. See Chapters 14 and 93 for more information about sun protection.

Lights

Headlamps

Headlamps provide many advantages over conventional flashlights by permitting hands-free use. Technology has advanced considerably to produce compact and lightweight units with long battery life. Historically, incandescent bulbs, such as xenon and halogen lamps, provided brighter and more natural light than did light-emitting diodes (LEDs). However, high-output LEDs now have light output comparable with incandescent bulbs. LEDs tend to be more rugged and demonstrate superior battery life.

The bulb has three key properties: brightness (distance), duration (time of usable light), and shape of beam. These depend on type of bulb, shape of housing, and battery type and size. Incandescent bulbs are less expensive and consume moderate amounts of battery power. Halogen and xenon bulbs emit whiter and brighter light but usually consume power at much higher rates. LEDs are small, have a smooth light, and use batteries efficiently. Because they are not nearly as bright as are other bulbs, headlamps using LEDs usually have three or more diodes in operation simultaneously.

With two equal AA batteries, most headlamp bulbs perform as follows:

• Xenon halogen: 3 to 4 hours on maximum power; 10 hours on less power

• Standard tungsten: 7 to 10 hours on maximum power

• LED: 30 to 40 hours on maximum power, up to 120 hours on limited power

Some headlamps have two types of bulbs: a bright xenon or halogen for important tasks that require bright light and three or more LEDs for functioning around camp or reading. These lamps are an excellent choice for professionals. The bright light can be used for night search and rescue or identifying animals. The LED can be used for documenting research or repairing gear.

Features to consider include light distribution, durability, water resistance, and maintenance. The headlamp should be compatible with a helmet if that is a requirement. A good headlamp has a spare bulb stored within it, is weather resistant, and has smooth light distribution with an adjustable beam. A good field of illumination provides even lighting in front of the user and well into the field of peripheral vision. Shape of the beam depends on housing. Some have a narrow beam with a longer range, sometimes up to 20 or 30 m (65.6 or 98.4 feet); these headlamps are good for night searches or route finding. Headlamps with a wide but short beam concentrate light for near work, such as within a tent or vehicle. The best lights have adjustable beams to allow either close or distance illumination. Waterproof lamps have O-rings or other gaskets to resist rain and sweat. Dive headlamps are completely sealed and submersible. Cavers often use long-lasting carbide lamps. Carbide lamps are also called acetylene lamps. They are simple lamps that produce and burn acetylene (C₂H₂) that is created by the reaction of calcium carbide (CaC₂) with water (Figure 94-4).

FIGURE 94-4 Carbide lamps are often used in caving.

Batteries influence brightness and duration. Batteries are either disposable or rechargeable. Disposable (alkaline or lithium) batteries have a shelf life of 7 to 10 years and are less expensive. Rechargeable (nickel cadmium or lithium ion) batteries, although initially more expensive, are less expensive in the long run if frequent use is needed. Because of a higher energy density than that of disposable batteries, a brighter bulb or LED can be supported. Large battery packs, such as those stored on the back of the helmet or on a waist belt, provide much longer life. Remote battery packs can also be stored under clothing and kept warm for more effective operation. For storage, the longevity of a battery is improved if stored cold.

Tools

Multifunction Tools

Recreationalists most often use a compact multifunction tool (multitool) or a pocketknife with accessories like bottle and can openers. Professional guides or outfitters may need a compact folding knife blade and a separate multipurpose tool with many tool components (Figure 94-5). See Box 94-4 for a basic idea of multitool components.

FIGURE 94-5 Leatherman MUT multitool.

(From http://www.leatherman.com.)

BOX 94-4 Suggested Multitool Options

Awl

Bottle opener

Can opener

Corkscrew

File

Knife

Pliers

Saw

Scissors

Screwdriver, flat

Screwdriver, Phillips

Tweezers

Wire cutters

Most experts agree that a pocketknife or a pocket multitool with pliers is sufficient for emergency use or basic camp chores. However, multifunction tools do not work as well as do specific tools. For example, a real screwdriver may be needed to apply sufficient torque and control to repair a ski binding. To repair a broken bike chain, tongue-and-groove pliers are much easier to use than are small multitool pliers. If rafting, one may need a boater’s knife, rather than the small blade of a multitool, to cut rope.

At a minimum, a multitool should have pliers, wire cutters, knife blade, can opener, and flat and Phillips head screwdrivers. It is useful in many situations to have a saw, awl, tweezers, and scissors (Figures 94-5 and 94-6; Figure 94-6, online).

FIGURE 94-6 Leatherman Juice Xe6 multitool.

(From http://www.leatherman.com.)

Multitools are available in two configurations. Some, especially the newest designs, are based on the platform of a pair of pliers. These tend to be heavier, but many wilderness enthusiasts and professionals agree that the pliers are indispensable for equipment repair. The second style is based on a folding pocketknife, such as Swiss Army brand. These contain many features and components but usually do not have pliers. Thus multitools based on pliers are usually preferred. Sometimes one chooses to carry a separate, larger knife, as described in the next section. If one carries a folding-knife style of multitool, then a separate pair of pliers should be carried.

Choose the multitool that fits specific needs by performing these comparisons between different models:

• Open all accessories. Blades that lock open are generally more controllable than are nonlocking blades. Blades that are difficult to open when new may be impossible to open after a few trips.

• Determine which tools will really be used.

• Tightly grip the pliers, and test them on a piece of wood or on a fat tent pole. Some tools have sharper handle corners than do others; the smoother edges may provide more control, better fit, and less pain on gripping. In general, there is more torque with a larger tool or with compound leverage.

For specific applications, one may need specific tools. Mountain bikers need bike chain repair tools, a tire pump, a patch kit, an extra tube, and hex wrenches. Skiers and snowboarders need a No. 3 Phillips screwdriver for binding screws. Rafters need tools, as well as a pump and a patch kit, to repair a boat or an oar.

Knives

Generally knives exist in two basic forms: fixed blades and folding blades. Many survival experts feel that a nonfolding, fixed-blade knife is best. Folding knives are often more practical because they can be stowed in the handle, thus making them more compact. Persons who prefer a folding knife usually select one with a locking blade so that more force can be applied without risk for the knife folding accidentally (Figure 94-7). A fixed-blade knife provides greater structural strength for making kindling and other forceful maneuvers.

FIGURE 94-7 Leatherman Crater knife.

(From http://www.leatherman.com.)

Blade Shapes

Knife blades have many shapes, depending on their intended use, for example:

• Hunting knives range from all-purpose utility knives to special skinning or gut hook knives for field dressing game. Large animal knives generally have longer and wider blades compared with those for upland birds and waterfowl.

• Fishing knives, such as fillet knives for field gutting and dressing fish, usually have long, narrow blades.

• Dive knives are usually straight and have symmetric blades and waterproof handles. They usually come with a specialized holster to attach to a diver’s leg on the outside of a wet suit.

• Rescue and river knives, such as those used by kayakers, rafters, and canoers, are often serrated to easily cut rope and cord in emergencies. The holsters are designed to attach to a life vest.

Construction

Most blades are made from high-carbon steel. Steel is durable, and when it contains high carbon content (typically 0.5% to 1.5%), it is strong, easy to sharpen, and holds an edge during regular use. However, it oxidizes easily and thus discolors after use or with weather exposure. There are many types of steel alloys, using more or less carbon and other alloying elements.

Stainless steel, similar to high-carbon steel, contains enough chromium to resist stains and rust, so it is excellent for use on long trips. Surgical stainless steel is less frequently used. It has more chromium, so it is stain and rust resistant and cleans easily. However, the blade does not hold an edge as well as does high-carbon steel.

Titanium is light, durable, and resists stains well. The main drawback is that titanium is more expensive than is steel.

Ceramic, or zirconium oxide, is extremely hard and thus needs to be sharpened infrequently. However, ceramic knives are brittle and need to be sharpened with a special diamond sharpener.

Handles

Be sure that the handle is strong, easy to clean, and fits comfortably in the hand. Wood handles look nice, but plastic handles are more durable and easier to clean and sterilize. Some knives have rubberized grips; if present, these should be well bonded to the blade.

Care

Knife maintenance starts with cleaning. Even the finest stainless steel corrodes if moisture, food, or dirt remains in contact. When a knife becomes dirty, it should be cleaned and dried immediately. Keep knives clean in the field by wiping with a clean cloth, with the sharp side of the blade pointed away from the wiping hand. If used for food or edible game, knives should be disinfected using hot soapy water or alcohol-based cleanser. Locking knives should be lubricated with light oil as recommended by the manufacturer.

If a tool is immersed in saltwater, it should be rinsed in freshwater, dried, and then lubricated. Lubrication not only greases the joints but also displaces water. Joints are more prone to corrosion because of electrolysis between different metals in the tool.

Keep knives sharp by using a whetstone or ceramic stick in the field just before or after use. If a knife is used excessively, it may need to be professionally sharpened. Use caution when sharpening with a whetstone to avoid thinning and reshaping the blade.

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